Archive: Issue No. 95, July 2005

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Gold of India

A necklace


'Gold of India' at the Standard Bank Gallery
by Same Ndlali

The objects on show in this exhibition which draws from the Musée Barbier-Mueller Indian Jewellery Collection, include pieces to adorn the neck, the ear and the hair. These pieces are in turn adorned with imagery ranging from gods and goddesses to animals sacred within South Indian beliefs. In their ordinariness, some of these pieces are visually charming yet loaded with symbolic meaning. For instance, a hair comb bears imagery of Lord Krishna with a flute and floral motifs to represent the tune or melody he plays for the maiden wearing the comb.

The types of pieces displayed and the manner in which they are displayed evoke the African collection in the Johannesburg Art Gallery, for me. This comparison reveals how the symbolism in eastern jewellery and ornamentation shares strong similarities with that of African ethnic pieces. Although Indian and African practices subscribe to different sets of values, both these ideologies manifest themselves in the form of ornamental and functional objects.

For this reason, I could identify with and understand the content of the show, not only because of South Africa's substantial Indian community, but also because of the links it shares with African cultures.

Some pieces, like the Gowrishan karam necklace, are visually heavy in the quantity of gold used in its fabrication. Others made from precious gems appear lighter. The larger necklaces have inscriptions on the back bearing the names of the goldsmith, the owner of the piece and the weight of precious metals used in its construction. I found this information intriguing because it offered additional insight and history into the pieces. That said, labelling in this exhibition is generally inconsistent, making it difficult for one to understand exactly what one is looking at.

Many pieces have peculiar forms, complex designs and obsessively adorned finishes, employing various motifs and materials, including shells. The ear ornaments in this collection are geometrically complex in design, combining squares, circles and triangles into single forms. Hair ornaments known as Jadi nagam reveal great labour-intensiveness on the part of their creators, contributing to this exhibition by presenting a high level of skilled workmanship and consistency perpetuated through generations in the traditions of Indian goldsmithing.

I found the exhibition space somewhat dissatisfactory: the room size felt small for the amount and kind of work exhibited. Nevertheless, I found the exhibition to be intriguing and valuable, educationally.

April 19 - May 28

Standard Bank Gallery
Corner Simmonds and Frederick Streets, Johannesburg
Tel: (011) 636 4231
Email: Sue.Isaac@standardbank.co.za or Barbara.Freemantle@standardbank.co.za
Web: www.sbgallery.co.za Hours: Mon - Fri 8am - 4.30pm; Sat 9am - 1pm


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