'The Loom of Life: African Attire from the Iziko Collections' at the National Gallery
by Marelise van der Merwe
Student review written as part of the Practical Art Criticism course in the History of Art Honours Programme at UCT
The South African National Gallery is currently exhibiting African textiles and beadwork from the Iziko Collections under the title 'The Loom of Life'. The concept sounds promising in relation to the endless debates about the status of art versus craft, Afrocentricism versus Eurocentricism: a practical investigation of cultural relevance. Yet the exhibition fails to deliver due to a combination of paternalism and the utter lack of perceptible cultural interest evident in the method of presentation.
To begin with, the presentation of the textiles is disorganised and shoddy. Numbers referring to an exhibition catalogue are written on scraps of paper and stuck to the wall beside each exhibit - a scruffy display method. Far worse, however, is the catalogue itself.
The exhibition is advertised as relevant - in an Iziko pamphlet and at the gallery entrance - on the grounds that textiles and beadwork are "an integral part of African culture". Yet there is absolutely no reference anywhere in the catalogue to the cultural relevance of the articles. Each item is described solely in terms of where it comes from, when it was made and the materials that were used. Where is the culture to which these articles are so inextricably linked? What about the significance of the symbols and materials that mark the clothing, accessories and textiles exhibited? The viewer is given scant opportunity to learn anything here.
At the very least there could be an indication of how, when and by whom the articles were worn. Instead the exhibits are presented as decontextualised objects in glass cases, with no explanation of their cultural function and value.
This role is given to paintings on the walls which, according to the Iziko pamphlet, are intended to provide an idea of each article's physical and cultural framework. Fair enough, yet none of the 10 or so paintings depict textiles similar to any of the articles exhibited, and half show their subjects from a distance or perspective that makes it virtually impossible for the viewer to see their attire at all. In addition, many of the paintings are by white artists, such as Irma Stern, whose depiction of black African subjects can hardly be said to be representative of African culture. Once again, the viewer is made to see with the gaze of white supremacy.
On the plus side, the textiles are beautiful, the workmanship exquisite. Perhaps the exhibition might have had a fighting chance at success if emphasis had been placed only on the aesthetics of the textiles, or how they were produced. But even if one viewed the exhibition purely out of an interest in textiles, something would be lacking. There are two looms included on the exhibition, but again there is no explanation of how they were used, what type of textiles they produced, or, for that matter, how any of the textiles were made. The end result is an exhibition that is neither here nor there, and comes across as both sloppy and ignorant.
Until July 31
South African National Gallery, Government Avenue, Company Gardens, Cape Town
Tel: (021) 465 1628
Fax: (021) 461 0045
Website: www.museums.org.za/sang
Hours: Tues - Sun 10am - 5pm
